Kasey Hebert invents the first commercial shampoo. Ads for Canthrox Shampoo show young women at camp washing their hair in a lake; magazine ads by Rexall feature Harmony Hair Beautifier and Shampoo. The first shampoo containing synthetic surfactants is introduced as Drene. John Breck introduces one of the first shampoos to America and develops one of the first pH-balanced shampoos. Chemists discover ways to suspend polymers in shampoo, to fill in the bumps and ruts where hair is damaged by detergent.
Ads featuring hair icons Farrah Fawcett and Christie Brinkley assert that it is unhealthy not to shampoo several times a week. Thus began our collective love affair with shampoo and the sensation of lather on our heads. As with many products marketed to both professionals and consumers, shampoo became increasingly specialized to address a number of desires and conditions — thin, thick, curly, dry, oily, blonde, colored, ethnic, young, old — and to sell as much of it as possible.
And for every shampoo, there is a companion: Conditioner. The quest for a better shampoo has been the Holy Grail of hairdressing, but as long as detergent in its many modern forms is an ingredient, and as long as our love of lather continues, shampoo manufacturers will be essentially spinning their wheels.
Walker was a talented promoter who often varied the story of how she came up with her products, but we know she was inspired by her own hair loss and a desire to serve the needs of other African American women. In the s, Walker began to lose her hair. Her work as a laundress likely contributed to this problem, as it exposed her to harsh lye soap, dirt and hot steam.
Yet she was far from the only Black woman to experience hair loss at the time. Many families lived without indoor plumbing, so regular shampooing wasn't possible and problems like lice and pollutants went untreated. Inadequate nutrition also made it difficult to maintain healthy hair.
In addition, many of the products used by Black women, such as a preparation made with ox marrow, likely damaged hair and scalps. Some women wore head wraps to hide their bald patches, but Walker didn't want to follow that path. For one thing, such attire would mark her lower social status at a time when she sought to elevate herself. Plus, it was natural to desire a full head of healthy hair.
So she instead embarked upon a search for a cure for her hair loss. Walker was living in Saint Louis when she began trying to solve her hair loss issues. Her brothers worked as barbers in the city, which meant she could turn to them for some hair care know-how. However, they weren't experts on women's hair and scalp diseases, so she also tried out home remedies. In addition, she drew on her experience as a washerwoman and what she had learned about the properties of cleaners like lye soap.
Products she could buy were another resource for Walker, though at the time few items were tailored to the curls and texture of Black women's hair. But Annie Turnbo's Poro line of hair care was different. Turnbo was a Black woman who'd arrived in Saint Louis ahead of the World's Fair, where she would promote her hair care products and methods. Walker's hair problems apparently benefited from this care and she ended up becoming a Poro sales agent.
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